Welcome new players!
This post will provide four starter decks that are easily obtainable, some tips on how to play them, and some general deck-building principles that should help you design decks of your own.
If you are just here for the starter decks, here they are:
Each of these decks uses only rares and commons, and uses codex cards where possible. They are designed to be similar in play style to popular decks on the ranked ladder. Learning to plays these decks should help you complete the solo content and transition to ladder play.
2 - Syland Horsemaster - Common - 10 memoria
2 - Freedom Fighter - Common - 10 memoria
3 - Feed the Forest - Rare - 60 memoria
2 - Bone Collector - Common - 10 memoria
1 - Elderwood Embrace - Common - 5 memoria
3 - Living Willow - Common - 15 memoria
1 - Tiki Caretaker - Common - 5 memoria
1 - Wood Elemental - Common - 5 memoria
1 - Verduran Force - Rare - 20 memoria
TOTAL: 140 memoria
2 - Shifting Tide - Common - 10 memoria
1 - Lore Thief - Common - 5 memoria
3 - Spring Mochi - Common - 15 memoria
2 - Gabrian Archon - Common - 10 memoria
3 - Wavecrash Colossus - Rare - 60 memoria
3 - Windfall - Common - 15 memoria
TOTAL: 115 memoria
1 - Rebel Slinger - Common - 5 memoria
3 - Seifer’s Wrath - Rare - 60 memoria
2 - Flame Spitter - Common - 10 memoria
1 - Blood Singer - Common - 5 memoria
1 - Underground Brigand - Common - 5 memoria
2 - Flame Thrower - Common - 10 memoria
1 - Grim Guard - Common - 5 memoria
3 - Seifer’s Fodder - Common - 15 memoria
3 - Firebomb - Common - 15 memoria
1 - Shedim Brute - Common - 5 memoria
TOTAL: 135 memoria
1 - Steamforge Enforcer - Common - 5 memoria
1 - Soul Pact - Common - 5 memoria
3 - Khalim’s Follower - Common - 15 memoria
2 - Demon Wrangler - Common - 10 memoria
1 - Soul Drain - Common - 5 memoria
1 - Deathwish Ghoul - Common - 5 memoria
3 - Oradrim Monk - Rare - 60 memoria
1 - Wind Soldier - Common - 5 memoria
1 - Dune Drake - Common - 5 memoria
2 - Zealous Crusader - Rare - 40 memoria
TOTAL: 150 memoria
If you don’t have enough memoria right away, don’t worry! Keep reading to learn the game plan for each deck, and fill in the missing pieces with what you have that works best. You’ll quickly earn enough to complete each deck if you just keep playing.
With green, we will learn to defend against rush, since this is a popular strategy both for the AI and on ladder.
This land pattern is called a “diamond defense”. At the start, it is even more important to block the enemy’s land than to gather!
Don’t let the enemy get close to your orb, try to cover their lands with your creatures, and eventually push forward to place aggressive lands. I didn’t fill in the spots right next to my orb yet, but you should fill these in case your opponent uses a haste creature to get a land right next to your orb.
In general for green, try to push up one side and fight your enemy away from their well on that side. You have strong creatures, buffs, and extra Faeria from Feed the Forest, so you should be able to win a fair fight. Syland Horsemaster and Bone Collector allow for some good positional play with practice, try to get maximum value from their effects.
Blue has a synergy focus based on two factors: collecting from your opponent’s wells (Mystic Beast, Wavecrash Colossus), and “7 cost matters” (Spring Mochi, Windfall, Gabrian Archon). Try to avoid your opponent at first and collect from their less-defended well.
This will allow you to build a Faeria advantage, then use your tricks (Humbling Vision, Frogify) to minimize your opponent’s threats.
In general, you want to “control the board”. If you are collecting from three wells while your opponent is only collecting from one, it won’t be long until your Faeria advantage turns into victory! Be sure to use your mobility, tricks, and protection effects to make creature trades that are in your favour.
With red, we learn a more patient control style.
Our creatures have many indirect damage effects, so unless our opponent has lots of heal (which only green has), we will inevitably win if the game lasts long enough. However, our creatures are weaker than in the other colours, so we should try to earn Faeria as quickly as possible to offset this disadvantage. This means our starting lands are to the sides of our orb.
Continue playing defense, and if you get an advantage, push up one side to claim a third well. Eventually our “burn” effects and ranged creatures will whittle down our opponent. Try to use your taunt sources to delay your opponent’s creatures and dictate which trades occur.
It is time to rush! Build lands as close to the enemy as possible to keep up the pressure.
If our opponent stumbles with a bad starting hand, the game will quickly tip in our favour. There is no need to gather from our own wells, because we will gather from our enemy’s.
Try to get the “inside” land right next to the well. This spot will allow you to summon a haste creature to gather from the well and attack your opponent on the same turn! Keep going for damage to your opponent rather than trading creatures, since your opponent will be wanting to trade anyway. If you use Wind Soldier to hit your opponent, sacrifice it to a Demon Wrangler if possible, since the Wind Soldier would die at the end of turn anyway.
General Deck Building
The most important part of building a deck is having a plan for victory. For example, you may notice the red deck does not play Bloodstone Sprite, even though this is an Epic rarity card in the codex that does burn damage. The sprite requires you to gather from your opponent’s wells, but our plan is to be defensive and only gather from our own wells. Despite being higher rarity, it doesn’t fit the plan!
Second would be “deck balance”. You should aim for about nine creatures that can be played on the first or second turn to gather, and an average Faeria cost between three and five. You may notice our blue deck has a high average Faeria cost, but this is part of the deck strategy! Spring Mochi discounts high cost cards, the three copies of Windfall generate more Faeria, and Wavecrash Colossus should be cast for its discounted cost. Conversely, a deck with only small creatures may not have enough power to take down your opponent, especially in a “race” situation. Try to include around five creatures that are big threats.
Third would be flexibility. A card like Last Nightmare is an excellent addition to any yellow deck because it unconditionally removes a creature. A card like Flame Spitter gives you that one extra damage you might need to finish off a creature, where without it you might be in an awkward position. The blue deck plays Shifting Tides and Falcon Dive to meet this flexibility requirement. The possibility of moving a land for a game winning play is worth the worst case of spending one Faeria to replace Shifting Tide with your next card. This is also why cards like Syland Horsemaster and Tiki Caretaker are so important to green - if you could never surprise your opponent, it will be very difficult to win.
If you have any feedback on these decks or spot a mistake, please leave a comment! If you have general questions, please ask them in the #new-players channel in discord rather than sending me a private message. This will both prevent me from being too swamped with messages, as well as share the learning with the other new players.
Thank you for reading!